Last weekend I narrowly escaped the monsoon that sacked New York City for a few sunny, spectacular days in New Orleans. While the damage wrought by Hurricane Katrina is still evident, the city’s unique, irrepressible spirit is as alive and well as ever (how ’bout those Saints!), pulsing through the bars, restaurants and general merriment of this one-of-a-kind town. Here, some scenes and recommendations from the Crescent City.
My traveling companion and all-around partner-in-crime, Shelby, first suggested the Terrell House as our home base for the weekend–and as usual, she was right on the money. Originally built in 1857 and beautifully restored, it’s an absolute treasure. The exquisite décor is rivaled only by the scrumptious breakfast, which included fresh-baked ham biscuits, deep-dish French toast with cinnamon whipped cream, and an array of mouth-watering egg casseroles. Oh, and homemade coffee cake and blueberry loaf. Yum!! Proprietor Linda O’Brien, a true Southern belle, is as charming as the house itself. Appropriately, Terrell House is located on Magazine Street, home to New Orleans’ best antique and décor shops. If you go, be sure to visit Perch, where virtually everything for sale had me ooohhing and aaahhing.
The Terrell House is a real find.
The biggest bargain in town may well be the $30 prix fixe lunch on Fridays at Commander’s Palace, arguably the grande dame of eateries in a city renowned for its inimitable cuisine. The Creole bread pudding souffle with whiskey sauce will bring tears to your eyes…as will the 25-cent ($0.25!) lunchtime martinis.
Commander's Palace doesn't disappoint.
Walk off that three-course lunch with a stroll around the French Quarter…then grab a bag of beignets at the world-famous Café du Monde and have a seat on the steps right next door, directly across from Jackson Square, to catch a performance by the Dragon Master Showcase, whose break-dancing skill will blow your mind (and whose humor will make you chuckle). The show is hard to describe but completely entertaining, as evidenced by the giant, cheering crowd.
When it comes to beignets from Café du Monde, there's always room for dessert.
Shelby and I made lunch the big meal of the day and then had a not-so-light snack at night…a strategy that served us especially well at the French 75 Bar, next door to the venerable Arnaud’s restaurant. Our trusty protector and canine-critic-in-residence, who Shelby fittingly coined Fideaux, was duly impressed by the succulent fried oysters and the crispy gougères.
Fideaux recommends the fried oysters at French 75 Bar...
And of course, no trip to Nawlins is complete without a sojourn along Bourbon Street. Quench your thirst with a Hurricane at Pat O’Brien’s, where the festive ambience is contagious, or brave the mechanical whale (yes, whale) at The Beach.
...and checks out the red-hot action on Bourbon Street.
