After many years of facials, teen acne, a brief few years of seemingly perfect skin followed by a terrifying outbreak of cystic acne, the occasional sunburn, dry patches every New York City winter, and long conversations with my dermatologist, aesthetician, and select skincare-obsessed friends and family, my skincare regimen evolved into the steps illustrated here. I’ve been asked several times by friends and colleagues over the years to describe it to them, so it’s about time I made this guide.
There are many variations of the 10-step skincare regimen out there, but it was important to me to indicate which parts of the 10 steps are intended for morning vs. night. Without going into too much detail per step, here are the reasons why (in my opinion) each step and the rotational substitutions are necessary.
Cleanse: Between daily sweat and accumulation of dirt and oil in pores, the cleansing process is probably the most important part of the whole process.
1. Oil-based eye makeup remover gently removes all pigments without excessive rubbing. I especially recommend this step for people like me who wear waterproof eye makeup daily.
2. “Oil removes oil…” my Japanese aesthetician says.
This is a basic scientific fact that plays a significant role in the cleansing process. Oil cleanser removes the sebum and makeup more effectively than water-based products.
3. “… and foam cleanser removes everything else,” she continues.
Once all of the oil is gone, there’s still the water-soluble junk in your pores like dirt, sweat, and dead skin cells that need to get outta there.
Tone: aside from softness and lovely scents, toning neutralizes the skin’s pH balance after cleansing and helps the skin absorb the products in the steps to follow.
4. After trying dozens of different types of toners, I’ve found that a mild alcohol-free toner is best for morning and night. I substitute the toner with a 10% glycolic acid toner in the evening 2–3 times per week to remove dead skin cells, treat fine lines and blackheads, and combat dull skin. (Incorporating this step saves the expense and pain of a chemical peel at the spa!)
Hydrate: Rather than 1 heavy cream, I like to pick and choose what I’m hydrating my skin with in the form of a few essential layers.
5. I add a quick layer of amino acids, vitamins, and minerals in a hydrating mist before moving on to…
6. … a supercharged face oil—a fast way to get concentrated antioxidants and vitamins into your skin, and soften the appearance of fine lines.
7. I prefer a fragrance-free moisturizer to hydrate the skin.
8. My mom bought me my first eye cream when I was 17 and heading back to the US for college. “It’s preventative. Trust me… just start now.” The skin around the eyes is super thin so it needs a little extra love.
Protect: Sun spots, skin cancer, premature wrinkles caused by excessive sun exposure… I don’t want any of that, please.
9. Sun protection is necessary every single day no matter where you live, whether it’s a fluid sunscreen formula that can be layered on top of your moisturizer or if it’s in your makeup (bb cream in my case).
Treat: I keep a diverse group of masks at home that I try to rotate on a bi-weekly basis, but of course I’ll switch up the order depending on how my skin’s doing that week. The regulars are:
10. a pore cleansing clay mask if I’m having breakouts,
hydrating sheet masks particularly in the winters,
an antioxidant tea mask if I’ve had a rough night or have been sick/tired/stressed,
and an exfoliating sugar scrub to even out skin tone, prevent breakouts, and let’s be real—it smells fantastic and leaves your skin feeling as smooth as a newborn baby.
